Well, isn’t this lovely. It’s months like February and March that make us wonder if Poland didn’t get its name for having similar atmospheric conditions to other geographic regions referred to as Poles; but then you probably don’t need us to tell you it’s absolutely arctic this time of year. We trust you packed your winter woolies and stopped shaving in September to prepare for the trip. Although it may be cold enough to freeze a lava flow, there is an upside: namely, you’re in one of Europe’s most beautiful and historic cities (UNESCO said so) and nothing looks better on a medieval castle (p.90) than a fresh dusting of snow. And though Kraków again set a tourist record in 2017 with almost 13 million visitors (bravo, we did our part), you won’t have to worry about them crowding out your camera lens this time of year, so get out and make the most of it.
This issue, in observance of the 75th anniversary of the liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto (p.106), and the establishment of the KL Płaszów concentration camp, we’ve put together a meticulous walking tour of the latter starting on page 6. It’s bleak, but it’s some of our best work, so we hope you’ll put it to good use. As ever, let us know what you think by leaving your comments on our website, and help us out by completing our readership survey. Enjoy Kraków.
Cover story
This issue’s outstanding cover photo – taken in Liban Quarry (p.109) and capturing the spires of St. Joseph’s Church and Wawel – was taken by Przemek Czaja. See more of his images at ul. Kanonicza 5 (I-7) and online at Made In Kraków.
New reviews. Restaurants, cafes, secret bars & more.
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Pojnarówka
This secessionist-era greenhouse has been renovated and turned into a unique place for art and coffee (located within the grounds of the University of Agriculture). Read more ▶
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Moo Moo Steak & Wine
This secessionist-era greenhouse has been renovated and turned into a unique place for art and coffee (located within the grounds of the University of Agriculture). Read more ▶
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Piec na Zabłociu
Only a short walk from Schindler’s Factory, it is a strong candidate for Kraków’s best pizza (Neopolitan-style, flash-baked in the wood-fired oven). Read more ▶
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Hevre
A trendy bar, cafe, restaurant and even weekend club. Featuring a creative menu of authorial dishes based on old Galician eating traditions. Breakfast until 14:00. Read more ▶
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Zalipianki
Polish tastes and products turned into something exciting and contemporary by celebrity chef Ewa Wachowicz. Check out the lovely year-round terrace right on the Planty. Read more ▶
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Massolit Cooks
By the same brains behind Kraków’s beloved expat bookstore, this cafe in Kazimierz offers delicious American baked goods, while adding vegetarian and vegan breakfasts. Read more ▶
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Klubogaleria Szajba
The kind of cult dive bar Plac Wolnica has been missing. The drinks list caters to all snobs with wine, cocktails and craft beer, and their signature shots are sold in fours. Read more ▶
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Pierwszy Stopień
5zł wine and Prosecco on tap in Kazimierz, plus open-face sandwiches and the full monty of boozy libations. Read more ▶
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Z Ust Do Ust (Word of Mouth)
Another ‘secret’ cocktail bars, this place ives up to its name by taking the idea of the hidden entrance to new heights. Finding it is part of the fun. We don’t want to spoil it so check out the photos for clues. Read more ▶
