As we say a tearful goodbye to beach bars, beer gardens, and swimming spots and glide towards the cold of a Central European winter, there are new things to look forward to: the leaves turning, hot beer and hot chocolate in cosy cafes, and, eventually, the holiday season, with the craziness of Wrocław’s famous Christmas Market (p.20). In this issue, we encourage you to make the most of autumn by exploring more of Lower Silesia (see our day trips box on p.26), getting acquainted with Wrocław’s modernist architecture (p.6) and taking a river cruise (p.43) before the frost creeps in. Our other autumnal recommendations include enjoying the splendid foliage at the Japanese Garden (p.42) in October, and embracing November melancholy at the Jazztopad jazz festival (p.20); for more cultural events happening this fall (like the TIFF Photography Festival and the Game Music Festival) see our What’s On section starting on p.18.
As always, we hope you enjoy your time in this amazing city. Should you have any questions or comments, don’t hesitate to contact us via e-mail at email@example.com or on FB. Happy exploring!
This magical courtyard captured by photographer Zuza Gałczyńska (@amateurofpizza) is known as Neon Side Gallery, an outdoor collection of Soviet-era neons. Find it at ul. Ruska 46C (D-5), and turn to p.30 for more neon hunting ideas.
Lovers of modernist architecture will have a field day in Wrocław, a city which emerged from the turbulent 20th century with a rich patchwork of architectural patterns. What follows is a chronological rundown of the styles that shaped the city as we know it today. Read more. ➔
BEMA CAFE (PLAC SOLNY)
Our favourite Nadodrze cafe now in the city centre. Great coffee and breakfast, plenty of tasty cake and a lunchtime menu of bagel sandwiches, salads and quiche. More ▶︎▶︎
We’ll leave you to decide what to make of all this. More ▶︎▶︎
A Ukrainian-owned speciality coffee shop and roaster and laptopper-friendly space. On offer: espresso-based drinks, pour-over, V6, Aeropress, and Chemex brews. More ▶︎▶︎
W OPARACH DIM SUM BAR
Small dim sum shop serving dumplings with fillings including chicken and parsley, pork and mun mushrooms, beef and kimchi, and lentils with orange rind. More ▶︎▶︎
As far as we know, this is the only Azerbaijani restaurant in Poland, and we would visit it no matter how bizarre the location, Galeria Italiana. More ▶︎▶︎
An abundance of fresh seafood in dishes like arancini con gamberi, octopus with potato puree, and linguine with mussels courtesy of Sicilian chef Tommaso Procopio.. More ▶︎▶︎
MODRA ODRA STREET FOOD
This hole-in-the-wall specialises in baozi with meat and vegetable fillings, but the highlight for us is the daily-special soups. More ▶︎▶︎